Looking for a non-invasive way to combat signs of aging, I turned to facial laser treatments. As it turns out, there's a ton of information out there on the subject matter. So to help guide me through the laser thicket, I tapped Kathryn Clayton, an Aesthetic Nurse Practitioner at SkinSpirit. Not only did she share the four most common types of facial laser treatments but also the benefits and potential side effects of each. Each type of laser addresses certain skincare concerns, and the laser that is right for you might not be the one that's right for me. So from least powerful to most powerful laser, here is a comprehensive guide to how to choose the best laser for you.
Keep reading for four popular facial laser treatments.
1. IPL and BBL (560 or 590 nanometers in wavelength)
What It Is
IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) and BBL (Broad Band Light) are lower-wavelength lasers that are more gentle on the skin as compared to some other laser treatments, explains Clayton. "If you've been taking care of your skin and you want to tiptoe into lasers, IPL would be a good place to start." And while they don't require any downtime, because they are so gentle you will generally need to do a series of treatments with these lasers to see results, she adds.
What It Treats
According to Clayton, IPL and BBL lasers are a good option to start out with if you're only dealing with pigmentation or a redness issue. "They're good for sun damage, brown spots, capillaries around the nose and cheeks." You may also want to consider these facial laser treatments if you have rosacea.
Possible Side Effects
Although these treatments can address common skin concerns, people with darker skin should be careful with IPL and BBL, stresses Clayton. "Melanin really loves this wavelength," she says. "If you have someone with darker skin, you can burn them and hyperpigment them."
2. Resurfix and Fraxel (1565 nanometers in wavelength)
What It Is
Resurfix and Fraxel treatments work by using microscopic laser columns to target the dermis and stimulate collagen production. Since these lasers are above 900 nanometers, they target water (instead of melanin) — which means they're able to address textural changes in the skin and are generally safer for people with darker skin tones. And because they're under 2000 nanometers, they don't ablate the surface of the skin, adds Clayton. Translation: little to no downtime.
What It Treats
These facial laser treatments help to improve skin's texture, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as scars. They also work to better tone, addressing pigmentation and sun damage.
Pro tip: "You can do an IPL and then do a Resurfix on top of it, at the same appointment," Clayton explains. "That's a good combination because it targets the reds and browns as well as any mild textural issues."
Possible Side Effects
Although Resurfix and Fraxel tend to be better than other types of lasers for darker skin tones, Clayton says to proceed with caution. "You still have to be careful not to over-treat anyone. I would go to somebody who specializes in treating darker skin," she advises.
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3. Halo (2940 nanometers in wavelength)
What It Is
Halo is both an ablative and non-ablative laser treatment that can be used on all skin types, including darker skin tones because it targets water instead of melanin. However, Clayton adds that darker skin tones will sometimes need to be pre-treated with hydroquinone. "If you're just starting out [with facial laser treatments], I would go with a Halo laser to get a little freshened up, then switch to IPL and Resurfix to maintain," she shares.
What It Treats
"If you have deep wrinkles and really stubborn inset lines, you're going to need skin tightening stuff too — so we have to up the ante a little bit more," Clayton explains. This means treating the skin with the Halo laser. This facial treatment also combats acne scars.
Possible Side Effects
But the additional power of a Halo also has some downsides. Because it's ablative, "you're going to get more of that oozy, weepy feel" on your skin, comments Clayton. Additionally, she cautions against people with melasma using most lasers, but especially ablative ones. "Melasma hates the heat, and you can flare it up," she says. "I tend to use more chemical peels with melasma."
4. CO2 (10,000 nanometers in wavelength)
What It Is
The CO2 laser is a fractional laser that's not for the faint of heart. It's an ablative laser treatment that uses CO2 to improve skin's tone and texture by boosting collagen production. You'll need conscious sedation or laughing gas for the procedure. Plus, this laser requires the most downtime (around two weeks), and you can really only do it once every two to five years.
What It Treats
Clayton recommends this laser for patients who have aggressive elastosis (a condition in which the skin loses elasticity, usually due to sun exposure) and wrinkles.
Possible Side Effects
Patients with rosacea will sometimes see a flare-up after getting a CO2 treatment. Additionally, Clayton says people with darker skin tones need to be extremely careful when getting a CO2 laser treatment. "If you go too aggressive you can cause scarring and hyperpigmentation, and you can't fix that," she cautions.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do facial laser treatments hurt?
They may be uncomfortable, but pain tolerance varies according to the individual. Fortunately, most treatments are relatively quick.
How much do laser skin resurfacing treatments cost?
According to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, the average cost of an ablative facial laser treatment will run around $2,500 while a non-ablative one will cost about $1,450. Keep in mind that these prices will vary depending on location and do not account for follow-up treatments.
How long do the results from facial laser treatments last?
When addressing surface scars, results from facial laser treatments are permanent. But when treating signs of aging, results may last for years although they can reoccur due to the natural aging process. Lifestyle choices will also affect this timeline.
The New Age is a column about beauty over 40, written by women who are over 40. Kate Spencer, author of In a New York Minute, and Doree Shafrir, author of Thanks for Waiting: The Joy & Weirdness of Being a Late Bloomer, are the hosts of Forever35 Podcast.
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